How do I know when I need new brakes?
- Do you hear noise when braking? Is it a grinding, screeching, growling, or chirping?
- Does your brake pedal feel lower or does the pedal travel further than it used to?
- Front brakes average 30,000 miles. If you live in a hilly area or you do much city stop- and-go driving, it could be much less.
- Rear brakes usually wear much slower and have a 50,000 to 60,000 miles average. Hilly areas or frequent stop-and-go driving decrease life.
Do we wait until we hear noise or the light comes on in the dash?
There’s a big difference between a chirp and a grind or growl. Most modern pads have metallic wear sensors. When the sensor starts contacting the rotor, it makes a “chirping” sound (light, high pitch noise on light braking) or a light comes on in the dashboard telling you to have your brakes checked. This tells you your pad is down to approximately 30% of your original thickness.
While this is not an emergency (you have plenty of time to get your brakes checked), you need to consider service of your brakes.
It has been our experience that delaying service and waiting to get the last bit of brake from those pads results in far more damage to the rest of your braking system costing you much more down the road. top
What do I have to modify to install these pads and/or rotors on my car?
All of our pads and rotors require absolutely no modifications to install. They are direct replacements for your original equipment parts and use the stock calipers.
Do I need to use my parking brake?
Yes! Whether you have rear discs or drum brakes, using your parking brake automatically adjusts your rear brakes. We at Brakewarehouse recommend using your emergency brake on a daily basis.
Your pads seem expensive compared to my local auto parts store. Why?
At Brakewarehouse.com, we’re always amazed that folks will spend 30 – 40 – 50 thousand dollars and up on a vehicle and hesitate to spend an extra $20.00 on the most important safety feature on their automobile.
Brakes are not an option! Buy the best and protect your investment, your family and possibly your life. Why take a chance on safety with economy brake parts?
Remember, rotors need to be resurfaced or replaced with every set of brake pads to prevent “judder.”
Look at Brakewarehouse’s prices and see that replacing is usually more cost effective than resurfacing. Most rotors are short-lived after being turned down.
Why take a chance on safety with economy brake parts?
Premium quality replacement brake rotors are vital parts of any vehicle brake system that are often overlooked. Brake rotors directly impact a vehicle brake system’s effectiveness and efficiency. With changes in vehicle technology and brake system design, brake rotors are a critical safety component that is constantly evolving.
Economy rotors, by design, cost less than premium quality rotors. However, economy rotors are one of the leading contributors to premature disc pad wear, noise, and vibration. Independent tests have shown that economy rotors can cause 100% more brake noise, 30% more pad wear and 20% less stopping ability than premium quality rotors.
Why take a chance on safety?
Brakewarehouse.com offers premium rotors that provide vehicle owners with braking action consistent with the safe performance originally designed into their vehicle. Rotors are original to system performance and safety. When it comes to brake safety and performance, there is no substitute for premium quality rotors.
There are so many choices! What pads do you recommend?
At Brakewarehouse.com we can represent virtually any company we choose. We choose to represent companies that make good products at fair prices. We know manufacturers that sell friction with virtually the same list of ingredients and stopping characteristics for triple the price. Don’t be fooled by friction that puts more dollars into marketing than their product.
Why don’t you provide a Lifetime Warranty like my local parts store?
Most retail-type parts stores sell you a $5 set of pads for $19.99 and give you a “Lifetime Warranty.” This says nothing about their quality. They know you’ll be back in a year or so needing more than just pads because these cheaply made pads prematurely wear the rotors on your car and possibly do even more damage to your braking system.
What is the warranty on your rotors?
Each rotor manufacturer has slightly different rotor warranties. Generally, 30 days is standard, but if a rotor is returned blued from excessive heat or damaged from other brake problems, the warranty is void.
Are brake pads boxed and priced per wheel or per axle?
If you never bought brake pads, you really don’t know, but this is a very common question.
The answer is per axle. You get four (4) brake pads, enough to do the front or rear of a car. top
Do I need to use the same friction on the rear as on the front?
There is no easy answer to this one. Front – Rear braking has many different configurations. You have rear discs and rear drums. Sometimes your front and rear brakes are evenly matched and many times they are not. You may see 12” rotors, front and rear or 12” front and 9” or 10” rear. Many times you have metallic front pads with organic rears. Hydraulic pressures also affect the mix. Fronts run 800 to 1000 psi and rears 400 psi or less.
At Brakewarehouse.com, we start with what your vehicle’s manufacturer recommends. This does not always mean we will recommend matched friction front and rear.
My brake pads are very dusty. Are all pads dusty?
Several things cause pad dust:
- Some brake formulas use petroleum hydrocarbons as glues and binders. It can give off a gas when hot which coats your wheels in an oily, greasy film that everything sticks to.
- As metallic formula brake pads become hot, the metallic particles become magnetized from the heat and friction causing a static charge that sticks to alloy wheels.
- There are new formulas that reduce dust; some more than others. At Brakewarehouse, we offer low-dust pads. If dust is your biggest complaint, let us know and we will recommend a product for you.
- Remember, even low or lower dust pads will dust excessively if you have other brake problems or if your rotors were not replaced or resurfaced.
Do metallic pads eat rotors?
The easiest explanation for this is to think of steel wool. You use coarse for removing paint, while using ultra fine for polishing paint.
Brake pads are exactly the same. Look at cheaply made metallic brake pads and see the size of the wire and steel particles in the mix. Compare that to high-performance premium pads and see the finely cut, even distribution of the metal.
If you run your fingers over the pads, you will get metal slivers from the cheap pads and a smooth, soft feel from the premium pad.
Are all brake rotors the same?
Premium rotors deliver less noise, longer life and consistent safe braking!
In independent testing by a major name in brakes using identical disc brake pads and both a premium rotor and an economy rotor design, the data consistently proved that the economy rotor takes the brake system below manufacturer specifications during critical testing. The research showed that using their premium rotors reduced noise by 50%, extended pad life by 25% and allowed the vehicle to stop sooner! The economy-tested vehicles had 20% less stopping ability than the premium-tested vehicles. A 20% decrease in stopping power can convert to over 20 feet in real life. Think about how many times you didn’t have that 20 feet!
Many factors account for this disparity in performance. Most notably, premium rotors with properly designed vane configurations not only increase air circulation and dissipate heat more quickly, but dampen noise-producing vibration as well.
As rotors have gotten smaller and lighter, vane configurations have increased and changed to compensate. Today there are over 70 different rotor vane configurations. Most economy rotors have only one configuration with 15% – 20% less cooling vanes than their OE equivalent.
The bottom line is less heat and vibration equate to less noise and pad wear, while increasing total brake effectiveness.
Must I always turn or replace my rotors when changing my pads?
YES! We strongly recommend you replace or lightly turn and resurface your rotors before installing any new brake pads. This is especially true for high-performance pads.
I’m feeling a vibration or shaking in my steering wheel on braking. My service garage wants to resurface my rotors. Will this help?
What you are describing are “warped rotors.” Today’s rotors are made to be lightweight and relatively inexpensive. Assuming nothing else is wrong, resurfacing, or “turning down,” your rotors is only a temporary fix.
If the rotors warped at full thickness, how are they going to hold their shape with 10% or more of their weight mass gone?
We believe the only time you turn down rotors is when you need to resurface for new friction.
What kind of performance increase should I expect with my cross-drilled rotors?
Typically 40% better cooling and 20% better stopping with significantly better wet-weather stopping.
Are special pads required when using cross-drilled or slotted rotors?
No, any pad can be used. But if you don’t use a high-performance quality pad, you’re defeating the purpose of purchasing cross-drilled or slotted rotors.
I have a problem with rotor warpage, will a cross-drilled rotor solve it?
While cross-drilling will reduce rotor temperature thereby reducing the possibility of warpage, there are many reasons for warped rotors. Many floating calipers need to have their guide pins regreased each time the pads and/or rotors are replaced. Failing to do this does not allow the caliper to float properly causing it to constantly ride on one side of the rotor causing warpage and increased pad wear. Other causes of warpage include poor quality rotors, improper break-in procedures, worn wheel bearings, caliper pistons sticking, excessively worn brake pads and a rotor that has been turned beyond manufacturer specifications.
I’ve heard that cross-drilled rotors are prone to cracking. Are cross-drilled rotors prone to problems?
Some people prefer slotted rotors because of problems that came about when cross-drilled rotors first came to market. At that time, quite frequently, the holes were drilled too large, penetrating the cooling vanes and were not radiused or chamfered. The end result was that the rotor lost its structural integrity and tended to crack, so slotted rotors were developed. They do help dissipate the hot gasses, but not to the same degree as cross-drilled, usually lowering operating temperatures about 100 degrees. We always recommend cross-drilled unless you are particularly concerned with structural integrity. In some cases, only slotted rotors are available.
Which is better: cross-drilled or slotted rotors?
We recommend cross-drilled rotors for most street applications due to greater heat dissipation (up to 40% larger cooling capacity) resulting in less brake fade, more responsive wet weather performance and enhanced initial bite. Most exotic sports car manufacturers (Porsche, Ferrari, etc.) equip their cars with cross-drilled rotors as standard equipment.
Slotted rotors are the minimum we recommend; they are far better than standard OE rotors. Gas-slotted, while helping cool the rotor slightly, mainly help by letting the hot gases produced in braking escape. This helps to keep the pad in better contact with the rotor and also allows water to escape in wet-weather conditions.
Can my cross-drilled or slotted rotors be turned?
Yes, any regular brake lathe can turn them down to the “turn to” specifications of the rotor. Just make sure that the shop you have turn them makes very light cuts rather than heavy cuts. This prevents the cutting bit from being damaged by the slot or hole.
Some caliper rebuilders claim to use only steel pistons. Do you?
No – many of today’s calipers are engineered for phenolic resin pistons. We only use what the original manufacturer designed the brake system to use.
In the late 1970’s and early 1980’s, phenolic (sometimes called plastic or ceramic) pistons arrived on the scene. In the early years, they were used on poorly designed calipers with bore tolerances too tight and brake lockup paid many a tow truck operator’s bills.
The OEs stayed away from the units but with the ever-daunting task of reducing weight, phenolic pistons have returned to be the rule rather than the exception.
Caliper locking problem – how do I know if it’s the caliper or brake hose?
The problem may be the brake hose. There is a test you can use to determine if you have a defective hose.
- Jack the front of vehicle off ground.
- Use jack stands.
- Place transmission in park and set emergency brake.
- Start engine.
- Apply brake.
- Release brake.
- Rotate rotor. If rotor cannot be turned, open bleeder valve; if rotor turns, replace hose.
This test is for a problem with one caliper only. If both calipers are locking, the problem will be in the master cylinder or booster.
What kind of finishes can I get for my calipers?
At Brakewarehouse, we can supply your calipers in just about any color and finish you can imagine.
- original silver cast iron color
- gold cadmium plated
- nickel plated
- powder coating (Red, silver, black, or just ask! We might have that color too!)
How do I “brake in” my brakes?
The following procedure is called “bedding in” your brake pads – it helps reduce brake noise and makes the pads last longer.
- From a speed of 30 to 40 mph, brake gently until the car almost stops.
- Reaccelerate to 30 to 40 mph; stay there for 30 to 40 seconds while the brakes cool.
- Repeat this routine five times with no sudden or hard stops.
- Next, take the car up to 55 mph and brake gently down to 20 mph.
- Wait the same 30 to 40 seconds for the brakes to cool.
- Repeat this four times.
- Do not drive vehicle for one hour to allow the rotors to cool.
What do you mean, rotors must be torqued?
Lug nuts or wheel studs need to be tightened in a cross-pattern and to a strength recommended by the manufacturer.
Most carmakers recommend somewhere between 80 – 100 torque pounds.
If one lug nut or wheel stud is 20% tighter than another, you can have a run out on the rotor greater than 0.005, which translates to a “warped rotor.”
Whether you’re a do-it-yourselfer or taking your vehicle to a shop, make sure this procedure is being done.
I don’t have a torque wrench. What should I do?
First of all, you should buy one. But if you don’t have one or you have an emergency on the side of the road, tighten your lug nuts or wheel studs in a cross-directional pattern all to a consistent firmness.
Even if you over- or under-tightened on the torque scale, you’ll have all the lug nuts consistent with each other.
Have your work checked as soon as possible by a competent shop or with your own tool.
At my service garage, they use those air guns to tighten my wheels. Is that OK?
Good service shops will have color-coded torque sticks. They are extensions that go onto the air guns that release when they reach the torque pounds they are set for. Yellow may be 70 pounds, blue 80 pounds and red 90 pounds.
I had my tires rotated or changed recently and now I feel a vibration and shaking in my steering wheel upon braking. Why?
If tire imbalance has been ruled out, it’s very common for rotor warpage to occur after tire changes if they weren’t torqued properly.
If my wheel studs were over-tightened or are inconsistent, can it be fixed?
Sometimes, if the rotor hasn’t been too heated, it will go back to an acceptable run out specification upon proper torque settings. If not, in most cases it must be replaced.
Can I damage my braking system when I install new pads if I don’t open the bleeders to push in the pistons?
Yes! Opening caliper bleeders and using line locks before pushing caliper piston into bore helps prevent needless replacement of master cylinders. Pushing caliper pistons back into the caliper bore without opening the bleeders could damage master cylinders or ABS components. Opening the bleeder will allow the piston to be pushed back without forcing all the fluid into the master cylinder. However, sending some contaminated fluid to the master cylinder is still possible with the bleeder open. Using a line lock will assure you that this doesn’t happen.
Brake fluid inside the caliper is full of dirt and sludge. Using mechanical force to push a piston back will force the fluid through the ABS and the vent port on the master cylinder, which is about 0.015” in diameter. Without the bleeders open, this dirt could plug the vent port, causing brake drag or lockup when the fluid heats up. Furthermore, many of today’s ABS units have one or more filters inside. Dirt and sludge will plug or restrict these filters, causing problems with ABS operation.
Why is flushing brake fluid so important?
Brake fluid, like other fluids used in the automobile, needs to be changed at regular service intervals. Because brake fluid deteriorates over time, we recommend it be changed every two years or 24,000 miles. If the vehicle is operating in humid climates, it may be necessary to change the fluid more often.
The most commonly used brake fluids, DOT 3 and DOT 4, are glycol-based fluids that have the characteristic of being hygroscopic. This means that brake fluid can absorb and retain moisture. As moisture enters the brake system, it can then be dispersed throughout the entire system. This prevents water from forming within the system and freezing or boiling before the fluid itself.
Moisture also reduces the brake fluid’s lubricating capabilities and will dilute its anti-corrosion additives. This allows rust, corrosion and sediment to form within the hydraulic brake system.
Additionally, the sediment migrates to the lowest points in the system during normal brake operation. This results in the dirtiest, most contaminated fluid being found in the disc brake calipers and wheel cylinders. Very often, technicians performing basic relines will simply push caliper pistons back onto the caliper bores without opening the bleeder screws. When this occurs, the old fluid and sediment from the caliper are both pushed back through the system to the master cylinder reservoir. The dirt and sediment can cause restrictions in hydraulic components in the system. This may result in uneven braking, drag or even premature disc pad wear. On ABS-equipped vehicles, the dirt and sediment can possibly cause a restriction or the modular valves to stick resulting in an ABS light illumination. It is strongly recommended, if the calipers are not being replaced, to open the bleeder screws before pushing the pistons back into the calipers. This will prevent possible damage to hydraulic components within the braking system.
Brake Myths vs. Reality
It is critical when evaluating brake pad performance that we separate myth from reality. There are many stories around regarding metallic pads, rotor scoring, brake squeal, etc. Most of these are myths based on a few individual old stories.
The fact is that a car stops by the brake system converting the kinetic energy (force of motion) of the vehicle through the brake rotor to heat. The faster the heat buildup and the faster the cooling properties of the brake pads, the more efficient the brake system.
Since metal is an efficient conductor of heat, metallic pads are used in the great majority of current vehicles. The amount of metal used is a rough indicator of pad performance.
The best metallic pads for regular passenger cars and light trucks have a metallic content of 50% to 60%, which is the optimum proportion.
Myth 1: High-friction pads slow the rotor more quickly than low-friction pads; the higher the coefficient of friction, the better the pad.
Reality: It’s the metal content that counts. Lower-friction pads with a high metal content achieve rapid heat generation and cooling while the rotor and pad mate together smoothly.
Myth 2: Metal pads score the brake rotor more than organic pads.
Reality: As a general principle, rotor scoring is caused by (1) a malfunctioning caliper, (2) a pad that has hard impurities in the compound or (3) a warped rotor that is riding against a pad edge.
Metallic pad’s metal content is fine steel wire (like a Brillo pad) and powdered sponge iron. Both of these metals are softer than the rotor surface.
Myth 3: The edge-code letter rating indicates the quality level of the pad.
Reality: The edge code is the coefficient-of-friction rating and indicates just that. EE pads have a coefficient of friction between 0.25 and 0.35. FF pads have a coefficient of friction between 0.35 and 0.45. The first letter is the COF cold rating. The second letter is the hot rating. This is not a rating of either pad quality or pad performance. It is merely the friction generated by a standard test.
Myth 4: Metallic pads cause more brake squeal than non-metallic pads.
Reality: Don’t blame the pads. Brake squeal is caused by vibrations between the pad and rotor. When the vibrations are in an audible range, you hear a squeal-like sound because of the rotation of the system.
Vibration has many causes: (1) malfunctioning caliper, (2) warped rotor, (3) fatigued or missing brake hardware, (4) unlubricated metal-to-metal surfaces in caliper and brake hardware, (5) pads and rotor not burnished in, (6) malfunctioning brake booster, and many other brake system failures.
In fact, some brake systems are prone to squeal problems, and that is why most systems use brake-silencer shims. It is very important to do a complete brake job and not merely replace the pads or pads and rotor. All brake hardware should be replaced at the same time as the pads and a proper caliper grease applied to all metal-to-metal surfaces. The pads and rotor must be burnished in during the road test.
Myth 5: Any caliper grease that contains silicone is O.K.
Reality: Caliper grease compounds vary widely in their performance. Only a lubricant that mates to the metal and provides dry lubrication will be effective for the life of the pads.
Silicone is a component in most caliper grease, and the amount of silicone varies widely from product to product. For example, silicone in aerosols is only about 2%. Other products may be 80% silicone. Silicone has no load-carrying ability and will be pushed or washed away in service.
The best caliper grease is a combination of molybdenum disulfide and silicone because the moly chemically bonds with the metal and keeps the silicone in suspension so it will not be pushed or washed away.
Myth 6: It is OK to substitute an organic pad for an OE metallic application as long as the friction edge code is the same.
Reality: Some brake pad distributors face price competition by telling their customers that an organic pad will work in a metallic-pad application.
This is a dangerous practice because most organic pads have a much slower cooling cycle and therefore become very hot and are subject to fade when faced with the demands of a brake system designed for metallic pads.
The brake systems in front-wheel-drive cars, especially the smaller cars, have about 85% of the braking-system requirements on the front wheels. These are physically small systems and thus depend upon fast heat transfer and cooling to operate properly. Original equipment specifies and needs metallic pads to meet OE performance.
Myth 7: Riveted pads are made with rivet holes that let the heat escape and provide better cooling than solid integrally molded pads.
Reality: In most pads, the rivet holes do not go all the way through the backing plate and thus form cylindrical pockets that collect the hot gas created on braking. The pockets also collect brake dust and foreign matter, which also retain heat. Therefore, riveted pads do not cool faster than integrally molded pads.
Integrally molded pads for the same application have 10% to 20% more friction surface than a riveted pad because of the holes in the riveted friction material.
Myth 8: The hydraulic system is unrelated to brake squeal.
Reality: The hydraulic system can cause brake squeal when the hydraulic pressure is not constant. Uneven pressure causes the caliper piston and the pad to vibrate, causing squeal.
To summarize, don’t get caught up in these or other myths.
Aim to do a trouble-free brake job by:
- Checking out the total brake system including hydraulics. Replace all defective parts.
- Replace all brake hardware.
- Use a molybdenum disulfide-based caliper grease to lubricate all metal-to-metal surfaces.
- Resurface or replace the brake rotors.
- When installing the rotors, use a torque wrench to OE specifications. Do not use an impact wrench. Excessive or uneven torque will warp the rotor.
- Use the correct brake pad.
- Burnish in the pads to the rotor.
- Check OE silencer shims. Replace if necessary. For extra insurance, you may want to install aftermarket shims of aluminum, steel or fiberglass that stick to the back of the pads.
The History of Brakes
- 1902 Arthur Raymond and Arthur Law form Royal Equipment Co.
- 1906 Woven brake linings are introduced by Royal.
- 1908 Asbestos brake linings are introduced.
- 1916 Royal Equipment becomes Raybestos.
- 1920 Hydraulic brakes are appearing on new cars, replacing mechanical brakes.
- 1923 The first dependable four-wheel brake system for the U.S. auto industry is introduced by Vincent Bendix and French inventor Henry Perrot.
- 1925 Captain Girling patented his wedge/roller actuated drum brake known as the “Girling Brake,” a concept still in use today.
- 1927 Brake systems now include vacuum brake boosters.
- 1928 Bendix Brake production reaches 3.6 million units.
- 1929 The “Girling Brake” patent was purchased by The New Hudson Company for supply to Ford, Austin, Rover and Riley.
- 1932 Ernest I. Schwarz (hence the acronym EIS), an immigrant from Vienna, refuses to accept the tight patent controls and exclusive aftermarket rights on hydraulic parts that exist through inventor Malcolm Lockheed and Hydraulic Brake Co. Schwarz starts to produce “aftermarket” brake components.
- 1951 Bendix introduces a power brake that evolves into the Master Vac vacuum-assist systems used on all cars.
- 1953 First Production of hydraulic disc brakes for Triumph.
- 1955 Wagner pioneers the use of high-temperature-resistant synthetic rubber compounds and high-boiling-point brake fluids.
- 1958 Cerametallic pads are introduced for high-performance applications.
- 1959 Self-adjusting brakes are used on passenger vehicles.
- 1960 Wagner develops and files a patent for the dual tandem master cylinder.
- 1962 Bendix introduces disc brakes to domestic cars. The Studebaker Avanti is the first to have them.
- 1966 Dual-cylinder brake systems are introduced by Wagner, based on a concept it had patented in 1926.
- 1968 Raybestos introduces tandem master cylinders.
World premier for floating frame calipers. Production of Annette calipers for Peugeot front and rear started.
- 1969 Front disc brakes are growing in popularity. Greater forces and higher pressures require proportioning valves to reduce hydraulic pressure to the rear drums.
Bendix introduces “anti-skid” (now known as ABS).
First production by Tokico of rear calipers with Lucas load-sensitive adjusters.
- 1974 The Girling Colette, the most successful fist type caliper design throughout the world went into production in Europe for Renault and Lancia and in Japan for Honda.
- 1975 Congress passes the Corporate Average Fuel Economy law forcing automakers to make lighter cars. Brake components start to get smaller.
- 1976 Load-sensing valves are introduced to control rear-braking forces.
Dynamic Brake Remanufacturing started in Montreal, Canada.
- 1977 Diagonal split systems provide front-wheel-drive cars with safe stopping if only one circuit is functioning.
- 1979 Semi-metallic disc pads are entering the market.
Low-drag calipers and quick-take-up master cylinders improve mileage by preventing the pad from dragging. The modified master cylinder provides extra fluid to re-apply (take up) the pads with minimum pedal travel.
- 1985 Traction control is appearing.
Dynamic Brake Remanufacturing, USA Division started.
- 1986 Anti-lock brake systems are available on the BMW and Corvette and some full-size GM and Ford vehicles.
First introduction of a low-cost ABS system in Ford Escort.
- 1987 Year of record 100 million Colette calipers produced worldwide.
- 1988 Asbestos-free pads are entering the marketplace. Kevlar formulas introduced to replace asbestos.
- 1994 ABS brakes becoming standard equipment on most cars. Most trucks have rear-wheel antilock brakes.
- 1999 Brakewarehouse.com formed as a Division of Dynamic Automotive Distributors, Inc.
- 2000 Ceramic-enhanced friction formulas become popular.
- 2002 ABS brakes become standard equipment on entry-level cars. Trucks have front and rear ABS now as standard equipment. 4-wheel disc braking systems are the rule instead of the exception.
- 2008 Web Distributors, Inc. acquires Brakewarehoues.com and starts development of AutoPartMonster.com — offering a comprehensive line of brand name automotive parts at competitive prices
Brembo - Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to install a Brembo system?
Most 2-wheel applications take only 2-3 hours to complete. A few 4WD applications require changing the knuckles (which are included with the kit).
Will it work with my standard master cylinder, ABS, or traction control?
Brembo brake systems are designed to work with your standard master cylinder,
and do not hamper the function of your ABS or traction control systems.
Should big brakes be installed on the front wheels or all four?
During braking, the front of the vehicle does the majority of the work. Exactly how much is influenced by the vehicle's weight distribution, wheelbase, and center of gravity height. Brembo engineers all of its systems to ensure that the brake
balance of the vehicle is not compromised. If not designed properly, adding a big brake system to the rear of the vehicle can result in an unstable condition, and
actually degrades braking performance. Brembo offers rear brake systems for a
select number of high performance applications.
What should be put on the rear?
Direct OE replacement drilled or slotted discs are available for the rear. They work with your standard calipers and give you increased stopping power, cooler operating temperatures, and reduced brake fade. It's an engineered balance for the larger, more powerful front braking system.
What is the difference between the different systems Brembo offers?
Brembo offers different levels for different applications, and for different budgets. There are currently three performance levels within the Brembo program. The first level is the Sport system. These kits include cross-drilled or slotted discs and high performance brake pads, and are direct replacements for the OEM components. The second level, the Gran Turismo system, upgrades the entire corner brake assembly. These kits combine fixed mount, four-piston aluminum calipers equipped with high performance brake pads, one or two piece directionally vented discs, and steel-braided brake lines. For those seeking a system for exclusive or nearly exclusive track use, the Track systems offer upgrades consisting of true racing components.
Where can I find test data on stopping distances?
At the speeds that stopping distance is generally measured from (60 to 70mph), the test is primarily testing the tire's grip on the pavement. As delivered from the manufacturer, nearly all vehicles are able to engage the ABS or lock the wheels at these speeds. Therefore, an increase in braking power will do nothing to stop the vehicle in a shorter distance. For this reason, we do not record stopping distances at this time. The Brembo systems will show their greatest advantages when braking from higher speeds, or when tasked with repeated heavy braking. The increased braking torque provides for maximum deceleration at speed, and the ability to absorb and quickly dissipate the intense heat generated during repeated braking insures that the braking system will perform at the same high level each time.
Will I experience brake noise with Brembo brakes?
Brembo makes every effort to test for and eliminate abnormal brake noise from the systems we offer. There are many factors that can contribute to abnormal brake noises, and while it is unlikely that a Brembo system will create noise, the engineering and customer service departments are available to answer questions
and work to solve any noise issues which may arise.
What are the benefits and features of the Gran Turismo Brake System?
Dual useeet and track events
One or two-piece drilled and/or slotted discs
Billet aluminum hats
"Floating" disc mounting system
Four-piston cast aluminum calipers
High Performance friction material
Can be used on the street at drivers' schools and at club events.
Proven on-track performance at the highest levels of racing.
Disperses gasses, cleans pads for better "bite."
Reduces "unsprung weight" for better handling.
Provides maximum braking force without the flex of sliding calipers.
Reduces heat-related stress, increases brake performance and pedal feel.
Aggressive pads that last longer and provide the highest level of performance.
What are the benefits and features of the Sport Brake System?
Fully compatible with stock brake calipers, wheels and tires.
Cross-drilled or slotted rotors
Attractive, anti-corrosive finish
Brake pads with optimized frictional coefficients
Provides a complimentary appearance on all four corners of the vehicle
Easily fitted onto customer's vehicle
Disperses gasses, cleans pads for better "bite"
Bold, aggressive appearance
Optimizes performance of the system
Provides a finished look when used with Gran Turismo systems
How does reducing weight of the braking system benefit the vehicle?
The mass of any vehicle requires energy to accelerate or decelerate. Reducing the vehicle mass improves acceleration, and requires less energy to be dissipated during deceleration. Rotating mass requires additional energy in order to increase or decrease its speed of rotation. Therefore, decreasing the mass of the caliper is valuable due to its contribution to total vehicle mass, and decreasing the mass of the disc has an even greater benefit due to the fact that it must rotate as well. Additionally, the mass of the brake system is also unsprung mass. Reducing the unsprung mass has the additional benefit of improved suspension performance, resulting in enhanced ride and handling.
What are the benefits of opposed-piston fixed calipers?
A fixed caliper is secured rigidly to the axle assembly and has at least two opposing pistons that force the pads against the disc. A sliding or floating caliper has pistons on only one side of the disc. Therefore, when the caliper acts, it must slide or float in order to bring the pad on the opposite side in contact with the disc. Nearly all original equipment calipers are of the floating type. In a system with fixed calipers, not only is the mounting much more rigid, but the stiffness of the caliper itself is greatly increased. This manifests itself in enhanced braking performance, pedal feel, and pad wear.
Are Brembo calipers directional?
Brembo's calipers are directional, due to the use of differential piston sizes. The leading pistons are smaller in diameter in order to combat uneven wear of the brake pads. Upon close examination of the caliper, you will find a small arrow cast in place which denotes the direction of disc rotation. Additionally, when mounted on the vehicle, the bleed screw(s) must be at the top of the caliper.
The caliper nuts supplied in my kit aren't round and won't easily
thread onto the studs.
The caliper nuts that are supplied with the kits are aerospace grade self-locking nuts. They have an oval crossection that prevents them from being threaded onto the studs by hand. They will need to be installed with a wrench, and torqued to the specification called out in the installation manual.
Are calipers available in alternate colors?
Brembo now offers its high performance brake systems with your choice of red,
silver, or black calipers.
What is brake torque?
Brake torque is essentially the power of the braking system. The brake caliper acts on the disc at a certain distance from the hub center, known as the effective radius. The force exerted by the caliper, multiplied by the effective radius of the system equals the brake torque. Increasing either the force applied by the caliper, or the effective radius results in increased brake torque.
Why use larger discs?
Braking generates heat, and the more heat the disc can absorb and dissipate, the greater the fade resistance of the system. Additionally, the use of a larger disc generally results in a larger effective radius, which increases brake torque.
Is the biggest brake disc the best answer for my vehicle?
Not necessarily. There are many factors to take into account when choosing a performance brake system. First and foremost, a brake system must be designed based on the vehicle parameters, and the type of use it will experience. Brake
systems are designed to operate best within a prescribed temperature range.
While modern high performance friction materials broaden this temperature range from relatively cold pad temperatures to the high temperatures experienced in performance driving situations, the use of a disc that is too large will limit disc temperatures to the extreme lower end of this range. Not only will the disc
temperature not reach the optimum range, but it will also be heavier than necessary. Below you will find an explanation of how reducing the weight of the braking system further enhances performance.
Why use a two-piece "floating" disc assembly?
There are several reasons that a two-piece floating disc assembly is of benefit.
First, by using an aluminum bell for the hub section of the disc saves a great deal
of weight. Since this is both rotating and unsprung, it benefits the acceleration, braking, and handling of the vehicle. Secondly, it is better able to handle the large temperature changes that a brake disc experiences. During severe use, temperature variances become present in a one-piece disc and generally cause warping of the disc. This not only results in vibration of the vehicle, and pulsing of the brake pedal, but also pushes the pistons farther away from the disc. In a two-piece floating disc assembly, the iron disc heats up more uniformly, and the controlled float which is present allows for the differential expansion of the very hot brake disc, and the relatively cool aluminum bell. This allows the disc to be used under severe conditions without having a detrimental effect.
Why use drilled or slotted discs?
Drilling or slotting discs aids the disc in several ways:
The edges of the slots or holes continuously clean and refresh the pad surface as well as providing increased brake "bite". Additionally, they prevent gasses from collecting between the pad and disc interface. The disc is lightened, thereby decreasing its rotational inertia. Improved ventilation increases the disc's ability to shed heat, resulting in cooler operating temperatures
What are the advantages of drilled and slotted discs?
The main advantages of drilled and slotted discs are the same: increased brake
"bite", and a continuous refreshing of the brake pad surface. Drilled discs have the additional advantage of being lighter and running cooler. However, there are certain pad materials that should not be used with a drilled disc.
Why are there so many holes in a cross-drilled disc?
The number of holes in a cross-drilled disc is part of the engineered system. Brembo has done extensive testing with regards to the number of holes, their size, their location and their chamfering. This attention to detail is what truly sets Brembo apart in the world of braking. The same attention to detail that is delivered to the Ferrari Formula One effort is a component of the high performance program. The number of holes in a disc is in part a function of the size of the disc and the internal venting (if it is a vented disc).
Are discs with cast-in-place holes better than cross-drilled discs?
Brembo has extensively studied and tested cross-drilling versus casting the holes
in place and found no significant effect on performance or durability.
Should new discs and pads be bedded in and if so, how?
The answer is yes, for optimum performance, any time different friction materials
or discs are introduced, a bedding procedure should be carried out. While the vehicle is stationary, pump brakes to ensure a firm pedal. Drive the vehicle cautiously to test fit and function. The brakes should be smooth, with no vibrations, judder, etc. Drive the vehicle to a remote area and perform at least 30 brake applications of 3-second duration. Use light/medium deceleration with varying starting speeds. Leave at least ½ mile between each brake application. The purpose of this procedure is to gradually increase the temperature in the components without inducing thermal shock, and to mate the brake pad and disc friction surfaces. After the repeated stops, drive the vehicle for several miles with little or no braking in order to adequately cool the components. After the above process is completed, the system is ready for normal use. When the system achieves elevated brake temperatures for the first time, a slight increase in pedal travel and pedal effort may occur. After this first "fade" and proper cooling, the system will maintain its optimum performance at all temperatures.
Some of the bushings in the two-piece disc assembly seem to be loose.
The two-piece disc assemblies utilize a floating disc. The mounting system of the
disc is designed to allow a specific amount of float in both the radial and axial directions. The merits of this system have been discussed earlier. Brembo has engineered special springs that are used on every other fastener in order to slightly preload the assembly. This has been done to prevent excessive noise from the system during street use, while still maintaining the benefits of a floating disc. These springs can be seen when looking at the backside of the disc. The small screws on the backside of the disc are properly torqued during assembly and utilize thread lock compound to prevent loosening. They must not be tightened further.
Does Brembo manufacture OEM cross drilled discs?
For some OEM applications, Brembo designs and manufactures cross drilled brake discs to be fitted as original equipment by a vehicle manufacturer. In these instances, the vehicle in question is usually of very high performance and needs
the additional performance that these discs offer. The Sport discs that Brembo
offers are direct replacements for the discs fitted as original equipment. These
discs are available in both drilled and slotted configurations, and are engineered
and manufactured to the same high standards as those fitted as original equipment.
Does Brembo offer drum to disc conversions?
No. Brembo does not currently, and is not planning on producing drum to disc conversions. Those vehicles originally fitted with drum brakes are generally not of
a high performance nature. Brembo has chosen to target only performance
oriented vehicles for our systems.
How long do Brembo discs last?
The useable life of a brake disc is influenced by a number of factors including
vehicle weight, driving style, vehicle usage, brake pad material, and many others. Therefore a blanket disc lifetime cannot be given. However, when used in the same conditions, a Brembo disc should meet or exceed the life of the disc it replaces. It is important, however, to periodically check the disc thickness, and replace the disc if it falls below the minimum allowed thickness.
Which direction should the discs rotate?
It is a popular misconception that the slots or drillings in a disc determine the
direction of rotation. In truth, for an internally vented disc, the geometry of the
vanes dictates the direction of rotation. There are three vane types in use:
Pillar vane (comprised of many small posts)
The first two vane types are non-directional, and can be used on either side of the vehicle. The curved vane disc, however, is directional. A curved vane disc must be installed with the vanes running back from the inside to outside diameters in the direction of rotation. Please see figure. Orienting the disc in the manner creates a centrifugal pump. The rotation of the disc causes air to be pumped from the center of the disc, through the vanes, and out through the outside diameter of the disc. This greatly enhances the disc's ability to dissipate heat.
Additionally, all of Brembo's slotted discs are directional as well, regardless of the
vane geometry. The discs should be installed such that the end of the slot nearest
the outer edge of the disc contacts the pad first. Please see figure.
Does Brembo participate in sponsorships?
Brembo currently does not participate in sponsorship programs, however we have a wide range of applications fitting many types of import and domestic vehicles. For a full application list, click here.
Is Brembo's complete product list featured on the Web site?
Yes, Brembo's Web site is updated daily with all its latest product information. If a brake system for your vehicle does not appear in our catalog, please visit our "Recommend a Brake System" page.
Who can I contact of additional engineering questions?
Simply e-mail your questions to email@example.com
Please provide the make, model and year of your vehicle
Does Brembo sell motorcycle brake systems?
The Brembo high performance motorcycle program will be launched in Summer 2002. If you would like to receive information about the lauch, sign up here.
Does Brembo have a dealer program for motorcycle dealers?
Brembo is currently working on establishing such a program and will announce the details of this program in 2002.
What brake pad materials are available?
The pads that are provided with Brembo brake systems are high performance pads that offer a very broad temperature and performance range. The pads are effective at cold temperatures as well as the higher temperatures seen during performance driving. These pads are suited to high performance street driving, and limited track usage. If the vehicle is going to be used predominantly on the track or if you wish to change brake pads when driving on the track, please call Brembo for recommendations on alternate friction materials, and the trade offs relating to their use.
WHAT CAUSES BRAKE DUST?
There are two known alternatives to asbestos fibres in brake pads. These are steel fibres or "Aramid" fibres such as DuPont Kevlar or Twaron. Aramid fibres have a high unit strength and produce a high quality non ferrous compound that is superb on high performance brake pads. EBC use Aramid fibres in their Green pads and a SMALL AMOUNT of steel fibre in Red, Yellow and Blue.
BRAKE FADE EXPLAINED
All pads contain some organic (living) materials. Resins that bind pad compounds together are organic - petro-chemical products. As these overheat the resins revert to gas and cause the pads to “aquaplane” on a gas film which is called fade. Some pads only fade once or twice and then settle down (Green fade or bedding in fade). Other, cheaper pads suffer from continual dynamic fade, sometimes at surprisingly low temperatures.
Temperatures between the pad and disc do not normally exceed 700°F even in
heavy street use. In race use 900-1200°F is common on smaller cars and in Championship Cup race temps. shoot up to around 1500°F where discs will glow red or orange. ALWAYS CHOOSE A PAD ADEQUATE FOR YOUR NEEDS. NEVER just choose a race compound because you think you’re a hot shot. Many/most race pads need “warm up” and don’t become effective till 350°F. NOT ideal for a stoplight situation in urban traffic. EBC Greenstuff is effective from cold and needs no warm up. Even so EBC Green feels stronger as you use the brake harder. We call that progressive braking.
NOISE - Light whistling/squeaking (at walking pace)
This noise usually happens as the vehicle is coming to rest and is again typical of a pad that is just bedding in or has been under used. Again the remedy is to allow
a few hundred miles for the pads to properly seat and have 100% contact surface against the disc. If the problem occurs intermittently, one good cure is to use the brake severely every day now and again on a safe secluded low traffic piece of road to “de-glaze” the surface of the brake pad. Obviously extreme caution must be used when recommending this to customers, especially with regard to the low traffic aspect. If the problem occurs continuously and the pad was not fitted with shims on the rear of the steel backing plate, call EBC for a free set of anti-squeal shims, which can be fitted by your local dealer. As this type of incident is usually vehicle specific EBC do not normally undertake to absorb the fitting charges for applying the shims but will issue the shims themselves free of charge.
SCREECHING (a loud squealing noise when applying the brakes at all times)
The usual reason for this is that the pads have not bedded in. If this has happened during the early life of fitment tell the customer to wait 300 - 500 miles until the pads are fully bedded in. This noise is also very prevalent when the pads have been fitted to rotors that have not been turned and have grooves or scoring. This will also extend the bed in time.
This is caused sometimes by the pad bouncing around in the caliper and can be cured by the application of fibre shims. Call EBC for the issue of free shims, the installation of which must be paid for by your installing mechanic, which should solve the problem.
GRAUNCHING (metal on metal noise)
Less usual with EBC’s low metallic brake pads. The customer needs to check first of all that the brake pads are not worn out. Brake pads can wear quite quickly especially in situations where the rotors were in poor condition or the calipers had seized, so the first safety aspect is for the customer to evaluate that the pads are not worn out. In spite of the fact that they may have only just recently fitted them. A system fault will accelerate wear in some cases to surprisingly short lifetimes.
WHAT CAUSES BRAKE DUST?
Dust is caused for two reasons. The first reason is unavoidable and is a “general use” problem. A small amount of dust cannot be avoided as the pad wears, in most cases the dust from EBC Green pads is 1/3 to 1/2 of the amount observed from original equipment pads. In the case of EBC 6000 series the dust is less than 1/4 of the amount of original fitted semi metallic type pads or other aftermarket semi metallic type pads (those containing steel fibre and carbon particles). The second and possible reason for dust if this has come on a sport type vehicle application is that the incorrect compound has been recommended. For example if the customer was using Green pads and found excessive dust, he may have needed the Redstuff grade, which exhibits almost zero dust and is a more robust pad having slightly longer lifetime. Redstuff is particularly recommendable on many models of BMW/Audi and muscle cars.
SHORT PAD LIFE
This can be due to several things. Seized caliper, poor rotor condition or the incorrect compound. Once the two first points have been eliminated, if the customer was recommended Green upgrade to Red.
If he was already using Red and still has a problem call EBC technical department
for further assistance, having the vehicle make, model and type of use ready. It needs to be understood here that many customers take their vehicles to track days, so this question should be asked and of course our warranty on lifetime does not cover any form of racing, performance or autocross use on track days. Also it should be realised that customers have very different performance requirements of their vehicles, some drive far harder than others.
TRACK DAY RACING
Many drivers actually take their cars to track days. We have found that the Green
and Red are both adaptable due to their heat range for track day use. The Red
having the slightly longer lifetime. It is the responsibility of the vehicle driver to determine which pad is appropriate for his use. No complaints of mileage during track days will be entertained under warranty by EBC Brakes.
Recently more vehicles are starting to use the Yellowstuff higher durability grade for all sizes of car in track day use, some cars even using our Bluestuff endurance grade depending on the weight and speed of the vehicle.
In most cases the Greenstuff pads are applicable to this sort of sports application.
UNEVEN BRAKING - Vehicle pulls to left or right
This is a very dangerous condition and should be analysed immediately by the installing mechanic. It can be caused due to the brake settling down on a poor quality rotor surface (rotor not turned) and can also be the cause of a pad contaminated with lubricant. EBC does not recommend the use of any greases in or around the brake pad, which can severely damage the friction material and cause loss of brake efficiency, but unfortunately some installing mechanics still prefer to use it. If this contaminates the friction surface the pad is ruined and it has to be completely replaced. Always replace pads in sets, left and right, across an axle, never replace the left hand or right hand pads individually. EBC only sell full sets for this exact reason.
SPONGY BRAKE PEDAL
A soft or spongy pedal can often happen during the early life of a pad especially on a vehicle where the rotor condition was poor (not turned).
Vehicles should be used for a few miles whilst gently pressing the brake pedal occasionally in a safe road condition to encourage the pads to bed in. If the
condition persists return the vehicle to the installing mechanic and ask for the brakes to be “bled” to change the brake fluid. Older brake fluids contain a higher
water percentage and can cause a spongy brake.
BRAKE FLUID MAINTENANCE - When to change
The condition of the brake fluid is quite important in a vehicle. The type of fluid DOT 3 or 4, should be observed from the cap on the master cylinder on the vehicle and the same exact grade should always be used for top up or replacement. The system should be flushed through with new fluid to change the fluid at least once every two years, according to the vehicle manufacturers recommendations. Failure to do so will result in spongy brakes. Spongy brakes in racing will show up sooner and are a result of the same condition i.e. fluid condition very poor and should be changed.
Green pads should be used for all standard street vehicles. Red pads should be used on muscle cars, faster and heavier BMW models and for track day use on light cars. Yellowstuff grade should be used for track day use on heavier, faster cars and muscle cars. Bluestuff endurance grade should be used on heaviest and fastest off highway race use. SUV’s and light trucks should always be recommended EBC’s 6000 series - there is no alternative compound for this vehicle segment.
Rapid Guide Passenger Cars - Green
SUV’s - 6000 series
Trucks - 6000 series
Muscle Cars - Red
Imports (Cars) - Green
SHIMS - WHEN DO I NEED THEM?
Many semi metallic pads (those containing steel fibre) come fitted from the factory or aftermarket suppliers with rubberised metal shims on the back to prevent rattling and squealing. This is because of the type of material they use. At EBC we very rarely use shims because in 99 cases out of 100 we do not get noise, due to the non metallic nature of our pads. In certain cases however and in certain types of use, especially “under-use” shims may be necessary to quieten a pad. These can be obtained from EBC free of charge by simply calling 818 362 5467 and stating the type of vehicle. These will be sent out to you and again reminding you that the installation costs are for the customers account, we do not warranty this fitment charge or consider it part of our guarantee.
FRICTION LEVELS EXPLAINED
Typical friction levels of original street pads vary from 0,25 up to 0,35 friction factor. EBC Greenstuff has 0,46 friction and users will notice an immediate improvement in brake in most cases. Remember friction level µ is only an “indicator” not a guarantee of brake “torque”. Many independent tests in Europe however, have shown EBC Greenstuff to be one of the most grippy compounds on the market today. If you want to read more please call us.
Grooved or plain vehicle type should be recommended to customers.
Almost all cars come originally fitted with plain undrilled or grooved rotors. This is mainly due to manufacturing costs and the fact that rarely are cars designed for sport use out of the factory gate. Higher performance cars such as Porsche and faster BMW’s are more recently coming fitted with “through drilled” brake rotors. EBC provide slotted and part drilled sport rotors for many import cars. The advantages of a slot on the brake rotor is it helps to prevent pads from glazing and to brake down the surface gasses which are generated under heavy braking on sport use i.e. track day, autocross or fast road use. The part drilled holes also add to the surface de-gassing. Many customers ask why our holes are only part drilled through the rotor, the answer is that because all original equipment rotors including EBC’s are what we call “straight vaned” in other words, the ventilation slots go directly from the outside towards the centre of the disc as they are not “scoop vented” there is absolutely no point in through drilling the disc. Scoop vented rotors require through drilled holes so that the air scooped into the centre core of the rotor can vent out through the holes. If through drilling is done on standard straight vane rotors it often results in an imbalance of the rotor, can weaken the structure and promote cracking of the rotor, that is why we don’t “through drill” at EBC.
EBC Premier Quality Reg 90 Approved Replacement Disc Brake Pads
One of the better legislations to come out of Europe was ECE R-90, which is a brake safety regulation outlawing cheap, non conforming friction materials and improving safety on roads in Europe. The new regulation which requires “type testing” of each brand of brakes compared to the original equipment on the exact model of car. It guarantees that products bearing the Reg. 90 standard can be safely purchased by the consumer, being at least equal to the original equipment parts. Whilst the regulation affects only models of motor cars and trucks registered after the 1st January, 1999, EBC now manufactures ALL of its standard replacement disc brake pads in this premium grade material, giving customers an added value advantage
over lower cost materials.
EBC V4 Greenstuff
Triple Max Power Award winning Greenstuff are the ultimate performance/fast street brake pads you can get for your hot hatch or sport compact. These pads have a high friction coefficient, great initial bite from cold, right up to a blistering 650 degrees centigrade. Greenstuff pads are great for street use and are used by many competition drivers on lighter saloon cars. Another major benefit of the Greenstuff compound is its award winning feature of being LOW DUST. Being awarded the UK magazines Autotrade Innovation Award for its low dust features, Greenstuff pads cut down between 60-90% of the dust common with most competitive types of semi-metallic pad on your alloys keeping wheels cleaner and delivering performance at the same time. Greenstuff pads are available for a huge range of cars, SUV’s, light trucks and mini vans.
EBC V2 Redstuff
EBC’s heavy street or track day Redstuff compound has been reformulated in 2001 to extend life and improve brake performance. The next grade up in terms of duty level from the Greenstuff, Redstuff pads deliver unparalleled stopping power up to a blistering 750 degrees centigrade, making them ideal for track day use on group N saloon type cars, single seaters and many lighter race cars. Redstuff pads have been used with great success on the Miata, Formula Ford and many other similar cars.
EBC’s entry level race material Yellowstuff has slightly lower friction than Greenstuff but with longer lifetime and slightly higher temperature resistance being effective up to over 800 degrees centigrade. The material has been used by many TRD development cars and racers alike, including Martin Bell in his championship winning BMW. Yellow is the choice for that extra percentage of life over and above our Greenstuff and Redstuff range. Yellowstuff is intended for short circuit races of 20 to 30 lap nature, see our Bluestuff for longer races.
Our endurance grade, longest lasting material Bluestuff has a slightly lower friction coefficient than its counterparts Green, Yellow and Red but delivers far longer life and is suitable for endurance races up to six hours in duration on most types of saloon cars. It is obviously the drivers responsibility to evaluate the lifetime before undertaking any types of race use.
EBC 4WD (4x4) Sport Utility Vehicle & Light Truck Brakes
More bite, less dust is the theme for EBC’s heavy duty 6000 series SUV and light
truck brakes. The SUV (Sport Utility Vehicle) market has exploded in recent years to become more than just Land Rover, Range Rover models and is the main focus of attention of the Detroit manufacturers with a range of fast selling models, ranging from the Ford Explorer, Escape, through to Chevrolet Blazer, Dodge Durango etc. This exciting new material is also applicable to modern sport trucks such as the F150/250 range. This material was independently tested in the LA CT (Los Angeles City Traffic) test, which is a gruelling 20,000 mile test over one month, through the Los Angeles City Traffic, further proving this material’s outstanding capabilities as a sport pad for this vehicle segment.
EBC GD & TGD Series (Track & Street)
EBC’s latest addition to the family, the new TGD discs, are British cast and machined using a high quality alloy designed to run up to 800/900 degrees centigrade (glowing red hot) and still run true and stay straight. For light race, rally and trackday use. New 4-spot drill pattern shows difference with standard 3-spot GD series. Together with V4 Greenstuff which help to reduce rotor temperatures, you will be hard pressed to find a better standard size disc/pad combo for your car.
EBC GD Series (Street)
EBC’s Turbo Groove Brake Discs feature a unique wide “high volume” slot design
that runs to the outside edge of the disc allowing the dust, debris, gasses and carbon deposits to be “spun off” from the braking disc surface, further improving braking. The blind holes prevent cracking and help to break down surface gasses of the brake disc/rotor to further improve braking under heavy load. Turbo Groove Discs are available for many Japanese, European & US cars. Made in Europe with high quality iron castings, the EBC Turbo Groove represents a high performance brake disc with good “behind wheel” looks, at an affordable price range.
Our questions for you!
At Brakewarehouse.com, our recommendations depend upon how you answer our questions and the type of vehicle you drive. Common question include:
- What make and model vehicle do you own?
- How would you describe your driving style – normal, spirited, aggressive, or Formula-one wannabe?
- Do you live in a hilly area?
- Do you tow?
- Are you having problems with warped rotors?
- Is dust or noise your biggest concerns or are you just looking for the best and safest friction for your family?
In today’s market place, there are many brake pads: Economy, Premium and High-Performance. Economy brake part buyers shop solely for price, not performance or safety.
At Brakewarehouse.com, our entry-level pad is premium quality friction that exceeds original equipment specifications.
Many of today’s braking systems are “under-engineered.” What we mean by this is the braking surface is very small for the weight and design of the vehicle. Today’s engineers are under tremendous pressure to reduce weight. A one-pound reduction in weight below the tire equals 100 pounds of weight reduction in the Gross Vehicle Weight (GVW) of the vehicle in brake performance and fuel efficiency.
Why you should consider cross-drilled rotors.
The primary reason is that they run cooler, approximately 200-250 degrees cooler when used with high-performance pads. This reduces the chances of warping, which has become a major problem in recent years, particularly on late-model, domestic vehicles. Additionally, you will experience improved wet-weather braking.